Whether you’re dealing with a new timepiece or an heirloom, knowing how to maintain its accuracy ensures that your watch remains both functional and reliable.
In this guide, we’ll explore the intricacies of watch regulation, helping you keep your luxury timepiece running with precision.
What Is Watch Regulation?
Watch regulation involves adjusting the timekeeping mechanism to ensure that the watch runs at an optimal speed, reducing the daily time gain or loss. This process is not the same as servicing; rather, it is a fine-tuning procedure focused on the balance wheel’s oscillations.
Most mechanical watches have a daily tolerance of a few seconds. Luxury watch brands typically aim for precision within +/- 4 to 6 seconds per day. However, if your watch deviates significantly from this range, regulation may be necessary.
Tools You’ll Need for Regulating Your Watch
Before diving into the process, it’s important to gather the right tools. Here’s what you’ll need:
- Timegrapher: This device measures your watch’s accuracy, displaying whether it’s running fast or slow.
- Fine Screwdrivers: Precision screwdrivers are necessary to make adjustments on the regulating arm.
- Magnifying Glass: Helps you get a closer look at the watch movement, ensuring precise tweaks.
- Cleaning Cloth: Keeps your watch free from dust and fingerprints during the process.
For those who are new to watch regulation, investing in these tools is a good idea, but if you prefer a professional touch, many watchmakers offer this service.
How To Regulate Your Watch
Now that you have your tools ready, let’s walk through the regulation process:
1. Test the Watch’s Accuracy
Place your watch on the timegrapher and record the rate. The machine will indicate how fast or slow your watch is running, measured in seconds per day.
Note the positional variations. Watches can behave differently when placed face up, on their side, or face down. Testing in multiple positions helps identify any specific issues with regulation.
2. Locate the Regulating Arm
Open the watch case back to access the movement. This requires precision, especially for luxury watches with water-resistant seals. Make sure to have a professional case back opener or use gloves to prevent any damage.
Locate the regulating arm on the balance assembly. This small lever adjusts the length of the hairspring, which in turn influences the balance wheel’s speed.
3. Make Small Adjustments
Using your fine screwdriver, move the regulating arm slightly towards the ‘+’ or ‘-’ sign, depending on whether your watch is running fast or slow. Adjusting towards the ‘+’ speeds up the movement, while moving towards ‘-’ slows it down.
It’s crucial to make tiny adjustments. A small movement can have a significant impact on timekeeping. Monitor the timegrapher after each adjustment to see the effect.
4. Test in Multiple Positions
Once the initial adjustment is made, place the watch on the timegrapher again, testing it in various positions (face up, crown down, crown left). This checks for positional variance, which is common in mechanical movements.
If you notice that your watch is consistent in some positions but varies significantly in others, further fine-tuning may be required. This process can be intricate, but it’s essential for achieving precision across different positions.
5. Close the Case Back and Monitor
Once you’re satisfied with the regulation, close the watch case back securely. For water-resistant models, ensure the seal is intact to maintain its resistance level.
Wear the watch over a few days, monitoring its performance to confirm that the regulation adjustments are effective. If your watch still shows significant variation, it may need professional servicing rather than regulation.
Tips for Successful Watch Regulation
- Work in a Dust-Free Environment: Luxury watches are intricate devices, and even a tiny speck of dust can interfere with the movement. Make sure your workspace is clean and organised.
- Avoid Over-Adjusting: It’s tempting to make large adjustments to speed up the process, but this can cause more harm than good. Small, incremental changes yield the best results.
- Know When to Seek Professional Help: While regulating your own watch is rewarding, some models feature advanced complications or delicate movements that require expert hands. If you’re unsure, it’s wise to consult a professional watchmaker.
The Importance of Regular Servicing
Regulation is only one aspect of keeping your luxury watch in top condition. Even if your timepiece seems to be running well, it’s important to service it every 3-5 years. Servicing not only ensures accuracy but also protects against long-term damage caused by lubricants drying out or components wearing down.
During a full service, a watchmaker will:
- Disassemble the movement
- Clean each component
- Reassemble and lubricate the parts
- Test and regulate the watch
Luxury brands often recommend servicing your watch with authorised service centres to maintain its warranty and ensure original parts are used. However, for small adjustments like regulation, many enthusiasts prefer to do it themselves, gaining a deeper understanding of their timepieces.
Understanding COSC Certification and Accuracy Standards
Many luxury watches are certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), indicating they meet stringent accuracy standards. COSC-certified watches typically show precision within -4/+6 seconds per day. If your luxury watch carries this certification but still shows deviations beyond this range, regulation or even servicing may be necessary to restore its optimal performance.
Final Notes
Regulating your luxury watch is a valuable skill for any watch enthusiast. It not only enhances your appreciation of your timepiece but also ensures that it remains precise and reliable for years to come. While it’s a delicate process that requires the right tools and a steady hand, the satisfaction of knowing your watch is running as accurately as possible is well worth the effort. If you’re not confident in your abilities, always seek the help of a professional watchmaker to protect your investment.
